Is it perch or toothfish?

David White Castle

The question posed in the title of this article is answered in the first sentence here: either way, because they both mean the same thing. It's almost...

Same, but not quite the same
So the perch and the toothfish are the same freshwater fish, but the question is: why do they have two different names? The answer lies in the size, with specimens under one and a half kilos being called perch and those larger than one and a half kilos being called toothfish. However, there is also a theory that in the area around Lake Balaton they are called "fogas" and along the Tisza they are called "perch", but this is more of a folk myth, the distinction is basically "official" based on weight.

Now that we have clarified the question marks surrounding the name, let's say a few words about one of the finest fleshed fish in Hungary.

A bit of perch history
Let's start with a bit of history: until the 1700s, people believed that this fish was a mixture of perch and pike, and there are even records of it being referred to as pike perch in the 16th century. But of course perch has nothing to do with either pike or perch, except that all three are predatory fish. The perch is native to the river systems of central Europe, especially the Elbe, Oder and Danube, and can also be found in some lakes in southern Germany and Lake Balaton.

An impromptu biology lesson for advanced learners
There are basically two species of walleye pollock, the toothfish and the rockfish, but they are easily distinguished by their appearance. The toothfish is slimmer, with a more pointed head and pale pectorals, whereas the rockfish is darker. The toothfish develops more rapidly and is therefore the only species that is artificially reproduced by laying eggs.

However, there is another way of distinguishing between reptiles according to their habitat. There are river bass and lake bass. The latter's flesh is whiter, softer and slightly more flavoursome than its river relative, whose flesh is greyish and slightly firmer due to the long swims in the river. But these are only minor differences, and experts consider this fish to be the most noble and tastiest flesh fish in our country.

The toothfish is an oxygen-demanding fish, so it is particularly at home in currents and eddies, but it will find shelter near rocks and stumps or in the recesses of the bottom, where it can rest, even in groups. During the day, they usually stay in these areas and forage for food mainly in the early morning and late evening. It is a predatory fish, selecting its prey not on the basis of species but rather on size, but if it misses its prey at first, it will not pursue it further. It is cautious and suspicious by nature and is a particularly finicky fish, feeding exclusively on live fish and despising carrion.

The toothfish on the table
But if the toothfish is on the table, it is best cooked roasted or steamed. Although the fish consumption habits of Hungarians are largely reduced to Christmas fish soup, it is almost a crime to cook fish soup from the toothpick. Why? On the one hand, because its meat, due to its structure, is simply not suitable for making chowder, and on the other hand, the meat of the toothfish is so noble and rare that it would be a crime to waste it in a spicy, paprika-flavoured chowder. Since it is easy to fillet, it is worth frying or braising it in a pan, because it brings out its special flavour much better.

KIOSK's selection is of course not lacking in good Hungarian fish. On our menu we serve it steamed, with broccoli puree, asparagus, leeks and pistachios, but you can also find this delicious and truly local treasure on our daily menu on a weekly basis.